Today, old customs and assorted skills of Moroccan individuals help make Moroccan crafts especially vibrant. An amazing array of materials are used including leather, calfskin, wood, clay, stone, marble, copper, iron, silver, gold, and iron. Artisanal techniques are passed on through guilds in which masters (al-maâlem) teach students and help them develop their abilities. A range of designs incorporate Arabic calligraphy, stylized foliage, and geometry as well as creatures, crisscrosses, triangles, and squares of Berber art. Research into this artisanal heritage began during the French protectorate (1912-56) and continued under the rule of King Hassan II (1961-99), who gave government support to sustaining Moroccan craftsmanship. While there is an inherent relationship between artisans and their craft, this personal dimension is often forgotten because pieces are normally sold unsigned. At the same time, Moroccan craftspersons often work on only one part or two in the assembling process of an intricate and multipart item. Arising from individuals or from groups of workers, these crafts bear the marks of their producers.
The art endures by catering to the everyday needs of the populace and the desires of foreigners as well as adding a dimension to sightseeing in Moroccan medinas (old cities). It is vital to shield this legacy, which forms an important part of Morocco’s historical heritage. A large number of families depend economically upon these craft specialties and they add richness to the exceptional clamor of the souks, which stir the faculties of visitors.
Types of products
The Djellaba
The traditional dress of Marrakech is called the djellaba (a kind of cloak), which is made from different materials such as silk, wool, or cotton. The djellaba is a long, loosely fitting hooded outer robe with full sleeves. It is made in many different shapes and colors. Women’s djellabas are mostly designed in bright colors with ornate patterns, stitching, or beading, while men tend to wear djellabas in plainer, neutral colors. The dress is often worn on traditional festive occasions but also in daily life depending on the person.
The Babouche (Belgha)
Traditional shoes in Morocco are called “Belgha.” They are a pair of comfortable slippers made of leather with different colors, but the traditional ones are cream-colored. They are formed in a characteristic shape that could be thinner or wider depending on the model. They are worn by both men and women but the decoration and the color vary according to gender, taste, and circumstances.
The Silham
Silhams are one of the most traditional dress items for men in Marrakech. They can be found in variety of styles and colors and are usually made of wool. Most Moroccan men wear a silham on special occasions such as in traditional celebrations. This outfit symbolizes the cultural heritage and civilization of Morocco.
The Caftan
Caftans are known as the most traditional women's dress and are available in a variety of styles and materials ranging from cotton to silk. They are made in many different shapes and colors. The majority of Moroccan women wear caftans on special occasions like weddings or traditional celebrations. The dress symbolizes originality and femininity and connotes elegance and refinement, due to the meticulous labor required for its production, largely derived as they are from the skills of tailors. Caftans are usually cinched with either a silver or a golden belt.
Accessories
Marrakesh is famed for its handmade accessories like includes bags, belts, and hats. Bags can be made of leather or wool with design elements incorporating a mix of wool, silk, and cactus fibers colored with natural dyes. Similarly, belts made of leather are sometimes shaped in a beautiful twisted braid. Hats are often made of wool and can be either traditional or modern with some cute patterns.
Methods of Production
Each product has its own method of production and its own materials. Some use many materials and patterns. Djellabas, for instance, can be made with wool with a special machine called el-mrema, made up of lwsayed, lmakhyat, chkandar, and el-kaada (see glossary below). They, as well as caftans, can be stitched in silk or in mlifa and embroidered in silk. Leather is sometimes introduced into modern caftans to express modernity and edginess. Other traditional implements are used such as the naoura (see first of two figures below), which holds the weaving yarn (known as es-sabra, see second of two figures below) and the achfra, the weaving comb. The kerchal is used to make yarn out of wool. The nziek helps do the weaving (the taderazt). The daf and el-medid are used for measurement.
Between Tradition and Modernity
Things change over time, as is the case with clothes. In recent years, new trends have emerged, as more traditional styles evolve into more modern ones through modifications in fabrics and designs. Nowadays, many Moroccans prefer clothes that have a sense of authenticity as well as a touch of modernity, so as to keep in touch with a new moment and new fashions.
Interview
On December 24, 2014, the team interviewed a craftsman named Abdelaziz, who provided much of the information about the materials used and the different products.
Mohamed: What is your name and your age?
Craftsman: My name is Abdel Aziz and I am 55 years old.
Mohamed: What do you do for a living?
Craftsman: I am a tailor and I do embroidery too.
Mohamed: How long have you been working?
Craftsman: I have been working for 35 years.
Mohamed: Where do you get the materials?
Craftsman: We actually buy them from other cities such as Casablanca, Mohammedia..
Mohamed: What are the used tools to do this work?
Craftsman: I use thread and essabra. I have two machines, one for the thread and one for essabra.
Mohamed: Do you use just local materials?
Craftsman: No, actually they are not made in Marrakesh because we have no manufactuers that make thread or sabra.
Mohamed: Have you undertaken any technical training for your work?
Craftsman: No, not really it is a gift.
Mohamed: What are the problems that you face?
Craftsman: I will not lie. No problems.
Mohamed: Which product sells the best?
Craftsman: It depends on the season and demands of the customers. Sometimes the summer is better than winter and sometimes the opposite.
Mohamed: Are the customers Moroccan or foreigners?
Craftsman: They are mostly foreigners.
Mohamed: How can we judge the cost of the products?
Craftsman: You can estimate it from the quality of the product.
Mohamed: How can we distinguish between good and bad quality?
Craftsman: Sometimes you can know from the cost of the product.
Mohamed: Have there been any changes or novelties in the job?
Craftsman: It does exist, in the nineteenth century, there was less product and fewer people. The wishes of customers have changed, people are more demanding. There are a lot of tourists nowadays.
Mohamed: Do you have any fears?
Craftsman: This job is on the way to disappearing. Only old craft persons are skillful. Foreigners are the only people interested in trying to learn how to make by hand.
Glossary
Achfra: serves as a weaving comb, traditionally handmade of wood
Belgha: a pair of slippers mainly made of leather
Caftan: a traditional long dress for women
Chkandar: two plates that hold the traditional weaving machine
Daf: serves to keep the dimensions and measures straight
Djellaba: loose clothing, woolen fabric or lightweight, with long wide sleeves and a hood
El-Mrema: traditional weaving machine
El-Medid: a long piece of wood used to measure the length of clothes
El-Kaada: a piece of wood located behind the machine used by the craftsman when he does the weaving
Essabra: a special weaving yarn
Kerchal: a double-comb tool used to make thread out of wool
Lawsayd dyal el Mrema: serves to balance the machine while weaving
Lmakhyat: serves to weave by using the wool’s thread
Lfandak: a special place where artisans prepare the raw material
Mlifa: A kind of fabric used in many products
Mebra: a sort of fabric mostly used for caftans
Naoura: another traditional machine that serves to maintain the weaving yarn
Nziek: a wood piece of 20 cm that serves to do the weaving
Silham: traditional men’s dress made in a variety of styles and colors, worn on special occasions like weddings
Tadrazt: the action of weaving clothing and other accessories (pillows, bags)
- Compiled and composed by Zaina Essallami, Khadija Kolii, and Mohamed Sabri
